Matur Suksema
A Tree in Songan Village
Modern Western society seems to focus on new stories and gratuitous entertainment, whereas more traditional societies celebrate and reenact the stories of their cultural heritage – or legendary history. The road towards the truth, literal or subjective, is a road less traveled, and the road from Songan Village up to Belandingan is a 4×4 extraordinaire’s ultimate journey.
As the road to Belandingan is steep and treacherous, Gede offered to find an experienced driver to help me make my way. I bravely declined. If failure is the first step towards real success, I think I made a giant leap!
As I followed Gede closely up the first steep incline, studiously in first gear, I had to swerve to avoid the loose rocks propelling from his back tires. Mortifyingly, the engine of the little Jimny promptly stalled out. Petrified at the swift, and seemingly uncontrolled, gravitational pull on the steep incline as we attempted to restart the car, Zoray and Cempaka fled from the Jimny and sought refuge in Gede’s car. Gede was left with the task of driving both cars up the worst of the incline, and I was left to follow him, alone in the Jimny, to Belandingan.
A Woman in Belandingan
As we all got out of our respective cars, Heather kindly stroked my bruised ego with the words: “Dee is a really good driver!” Some women really do seem to have nurturing and healing powers. As my embarrassment subsided, I could focus on the hive of activity in the streets of Belandingan.
The practically deserted village of our first visit was now buzzing with people making their way towards the temple grounds. Along with Heather and Pete, I immediately became aware of the intense gazing stare of an elderly woman, from behind the short exterior wall of the nearest house. If I could read her mind, I wonder what tales her thoughts would tell. I reached for my camera and started to record the events unfolding, with great excitement, all around us.
Villagers Walking To Temple
Young and old were equally surprised and amused by our arrival. The community’s hospitality was overwhelming for Pete, who was greeted by a young man who apologized for speaking bad English. Dumbstruck, Pete replied: “Excuse me! I am here in your village and I cannot even begin to speak your language. I am the one who should be apologizing!” Visiting the Head of the village, and having his blessing to be there, really paid off, thanks to Gede and The Cempaka Putih Foundation.
Temple Entrance
With no rice stuck to my forehead, I was politely stopped by the temple security and asked if I had been to a ceremony (an apparent prerequisite to enter and see the dancing). I gave them a friendly and detailed gesture that I had been and, with a few Balinese words from Gede, they allowed me inside. The atmosphere in the temple was majestic and festive with the gamelan playing and young dancers practicing the traditional Balinese choreography and movements in unison. As the evening progressed, and darkness descended, the experienced masters took over the dancing, performing in full costume.
A Dancer in Costume
Gede introduced me to a guide that would escort me around the temple grounds, so I could take some photographs and short videos. He introduced himself as ”Ketut Dodi,” and, with confidence, I could reply: “Nama saya Dee.” Ketut Dodi turned out to be a wonderful wingman and right hand, as I sneaked around the temple grounds. I left Heather and Pete with Zoray, and explored every square inch of the Temple. It was as exiting as having a press-pass at a fashion show in Milan!
Balinese Delicacies
A new delicacy for me, which may be an acquired taste for some, is the Balinese Cuisine for sale at little temporary “warungs” around the temple. What a feast! At times I might not have known exactly what I was eating, but I surely enjoyed all of it. I highly recommend the smoked pork sausage and coconut doughnuts. To be daring, I would suggest that you eat to your hearts delight, even if it may cause your stomach some distress!
Singing a Duet
Back in the temple, the head of the village was singing a duet of phrases from a book with another man. As I sat and listened, while watching the dances, I became aware of the intrinsic effect. That was the closest I have ever been to understand the true meaning of something referred to as a “time warp.” The highlight of this evening was to be at 2:00 o’clock that morning, but it was time for us to leave this place, and return to our own lives with a bit more respect and dedication.
Dee with the Dancers
At times “Terima Kasih” or “Thank You” just isn’t enough to show appreciation. Luckily for me, I learned a new phrase from Ketut Dodi, to express the highest appreciation in Balinese.
I lift my hands together in prayer up to my chest and say to Gede, Zoray, Heather, Pete, Cempaka, the people of Belandingan, and the readers and supporters of the Cempaka Putih Foundation a warm and heart felt:
“Matur Suksema”
