Race in the back of the class

I read somewhere once, that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over, but expecting a different outcome each time. Often in life, we find ourselves on a hamster wheel as we live to the calculated formula that provides us with an outcome that adheres to our comfort zone. Abandoning the familiar, along with the securities and comforts that come with it, would be considered madness as well. To me, however, continuing to do the same thing over and over, regardless of the expected outcome, and yet continuing to expect to change and to grow as a person is, indeed, insanity.

This Sunday we had the privilege to take Race Fannin with us to our English classes in Songan. Leaving California for the fist time to experience a different culture, and the “Real Bali” as he jokingly said, is sure to be life changing. Gede introduced him to the students and informed them that next week, when he joins us again, he will sing a song and fire will shoot out of his hair. Good luck figuring out how to do that Race! I think this fire is just symbolic of what we can prepare to do at the next lesson together, and I look forward to working on ideas with you. Our last visitor, Joe from Germany, entertained the kids with a bag full of magical tricks and had great fun doing it.

Max, Dee and Race giving out books and pens.

Sadly the Cempaka Putih Foundation is also saying goodbye to a volunteer. Max came to Bali nine months ago and has been assisting me with the English classes. A month ago he would have returned already, but three hours before boarding the plane he impulsively postponed his flight. This madness was proof of the personal change he has undergone. “We very much love you” handwritten in a little farewell note from one of the students, I think sums up our gratitude for your efforts. We wish you a save flight back to South Africa and a speedy return!

Max, Race and I also handed out the books and Pens donated last week by Kadek and her friends to the students. “Bagus” was the first Indonesian word that Race added to his vocabulary as he gave these little people a big hearted handshake and a simple encouraging word.

After one year of being involved with the Cempaka Putih Foundation, and working in Songan, I think I am finding some method to my madness through the people that join me every so often. Gede and I cannot do it alone! Innovative involvement from both foreigners and Indonesians is a proven method to bring the change we want to see in this community.

It’s a crazy world we live in after all, so I challenge YOU to stop the senseless insanity of life and embrace meaningful madness. The method of volunteering and donating can make a change and let the foundation grow stronger in order to beat poverty. Please contact us today if you are inspired to help.

A few good Samaritans

Recently, a law was passed in Indonesia that makes it illegal to give money to a street beggar. While I also agree that giving in this way might create a bigger problem, I don’t think making it illegal to give will solve the problem either.  It does make the work of the Cempaka Putih  Foundation more vital to those that are in need.

While a lot of our support comes from businesses and people abroad it was refreshing that a group of young friends from Denpasar, Bali was inspired enough by our work to come and make a contribution themselves.

Boxes with food, clothes and stationery

Visiting us while we were busy with our English learning program at the Songan Village School, they pulled in with four cars and a small truck. The commotion of unloading the truck and setting up in the classroom next door made it a bit hard for me and Max to keep the children’s attention, but it was all for a good cause!

Poverty still affects many people in this region and the approaching draught of the dry season is bound to have an impact on many families in this farming community. The donation of food and clothes will definitely assist those in need, and the books and stationery will come in handy at the school as well.

We took a break and went into a meeting with the headmaster, head of the banjar and Gede to thank these good Samaritans for their efforts and received their blessing with great appreciation. Soon I will be reporting back on the distribution of the supplies you so generously gave to us, so you can see for yourself who benefited from your compassionate generosity.

Max handing out certificates

We also took the opportunity to give certificates to the children who attend our Sunday classes to inspire them to continue. Max mentioned that the young adults he taught English to could learn some confidence from these young students who so bravely speak in class and participate in the games that makes learning fun.

A great exercise for the heart is to bend down and help another up, and doing this is within anyone’s power, as well as to their own personal advantage. The Cempaka Putih Foundation has given me the privilege of experiencing this truth for myself. Empathy, compassion and generosity might not be the law, but it still seems to be human nature. And the visit from our friends in Denpasar delivered this message of hope, that no law is needed for people to care about each other.

Gede talking to Kadek and friends

I hope that this example of humanity, that Kadek Aryati Kusuma Dewi and her friends made, will also inspire others to do the same, so we can continue to conquer the effects of poverty for years to come!

Terima kasih banyak!

A Mini Carnival

It is a Balinese tradition that the day you have children, the community stops calling you by your given name, and refers to you as “Father of Sania” or “Mother of Andre” instead. Your role as a caregiver and provider is clearly mapped out with this name change, and the importance of parenting is honored with this expression of unconditional love.

I believe that this gentle attentive parenting of Balinese children make them the most pleasant, focused and simply delightful students to have. The last seven months teaching Sundays at Songon Village School has been an absolute pleasure and is the highlight of my week!

When Gede told me that there will be a few Australians joining us this last Sunday to do some face painting I got so excited that I also invited Joe, a German Sky and Water diving instructor, with! Not that there be any jumping out of planes or boats, but Joe had another talent up his sleeve… A few magic tricks he wanted to perform and teach the kids.

Being accustomed to the discipline of our students, I knew that this Australian, German, South African and Balinese cultural collision would not be chaotic at all. Utilizing three classrooms and dividing the children into three rotating groups took care of the logistics, and so we started facing the fun.

In the Australian classroom Shane created balloon creatures and toys, or whatever each child wished for. Nadia and Vanessa transformed them into Butterflies, Batman, or you name it, through face painting. The detail and artful skill of these Australians was phenomenal and inspiring.

At the same time, in the German classroom, Joe was pulling the bunny out of the hat, or was it putting the coin onto a closed bottle or a few card tricks? I am not too sure, but the most noise and laughter came from his Hocus Pocus, or at times “Hopelessly Pocus,” but always entertaining tricks.

And in the meantime, with all this fun going on, an English lesson was being given in the South African classroom. I only had one naughty boy that could not stay in the class to learn… It was Max! He simply had to join in the fun, and was soon having balloon sword fights, watching the magic tricks and face painting, and enjoying himself with the rest of the children!

Smile and the world smiles back at you. Smile at a child and experience an abundance of cheery laughter. As the children said their goodbyes to Nadia, Vanessa, Joe, Max and Me, I realized that through the Cempaka Putih Foundation, prosperity is a possibility for these students.

As for me, I am no longer Dee. I am a “Teacher of Songon Children.”

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Family Portrait

While friendships might sink, family ties bind people ever closer together. Being involved with the Cempaka Putih Foundation gives such an experience of togetherness and of being part of a family. While assisting with projects that aid and relieve the needs of the community, you may also be invited to participate in the culture, ceremonies, and joyous occasions of day-to-day life.

Max With The School Children

Recently, we have been blessed with visits and active involvement from friends of CPF. One such friend is Max, an actor and fitness instructor from South Africa, who has also been a ballet dancer in Europe. Initially, he just came along to assist me in giving the English classes in Songan village, but he soon found himself learning and experiencing more about the people of this magical Balinese caldera.

Cleansing at the Mountain Spring

His first encounter was a bit of a cold shower, during a new year’s cleansing ceremony in a mountain river. After this dousing Gede, Max, and I adjourned to the temple of the water goddess, at the shore of Lake Batur, for a private ceremony. An introduction to Balinese ritual I am sure he won’t soon forget…

We later attended a wedding ceremony in the village. While in the West a wedding is a private affair, for which guests must clear their entire day, in Balinese custom it is quite polite for members of the community and friends to arrive, greet the bride and groom, have a meal, and be off again! So, that is just what we did. However, afterwards, Gede took us further into the isolated caldera region to bring spring water to a remote village for a much more unusual wedding ceremony.

Max and Gede in Temple

Ancestral wedding ceremonies are a rarity we were much honored to witness. A family in the mountains was convinced that their ancestors, who never been given a proper wedding ceremony, needed one in order to bring balance and harmony back to the family. CPF was there to share and assist in this belated celebration of the past couple’s union. Max and I were treated like royalty, and eager youngsters, vying for an opportunity to practice their English skills, kept the conversation lively and informative.

Graham Leads a Nursery Rhyme

Teresa Bids Adieu

Teresa was truly touched when it came time for us to leave, and a little boy placed her hand on his forehead when bidding her farewell. I hope that the games, laughter, and fun of the day will echo in her heart for years to come.

All good things come to an end, even life itself. Graham, Max, and I joined Gede for the cremation ceremony of a beloved 105 year old man. A man Gede had considered to be as his own grandfather. Although a cremation is a colorful and boisterous affair, we all bonded and became slightly emotional over the loss of this cherished family member

In the Family Compound

The communal meal at the family compound afterwards really made us feel like a part of this family, and close to the community. During times of loss a stranger’s love and support can be of great comfort.

Whether you give of yourself, your time, your money, your expertise, or just a hug, I highly recommend learning more about the daily routines, trials, joys, and heartbreaks of this unique area, if even just to bring you closer to your humanity and yourself. Having been involved with CPF for the last five months has made me realize someone may not be your friend, but they are always your family. We are all part of this human race, and we are living together on Mother Earth. Cempaka Putih Foundation is proof that a little effort can make a huge difference in our common struggles to survive and thrive in these tumultuous times.

Hands in Prayer, A Universal Symbol

All donations, no matter how small, are of great benefit when they reach grass roots efforts like CPF. Every drop in the bucket is essential in making a difference and assisting in the relief of poverty. If you want to do your part, and be part of our family, just as Max, Graham, Teresa and I did, do not hesitate to contact CPF. I am sure I speak for all of us when I thank Cempaka Putih Foundation for this opportunity, and I hope our involvement will inspire others to join, donate, and unite as one big global family.

Traditional Baby Bracelets

When a Balinese child is born, for the first three months they are not allowed to touch the ground. Silver or gold bracelets are placed around their arms and ankles, they are almost worshiped or perceived to be “fallen angels”

I accompanied Gede to a meeting he had set up with the principal of a local primary school, the banjar leader, and a few teachers in Songan Village. During the meeting, the mission statement of Cempaka Putih Foundation was handed over and explained, and examples were given of other ongoing and/or successfully completed CPF projects within the community.

The School in Songan

The purpose of this meeting was to submit a proposal to start an English language program at the school. This is where I would come in, as the principal of the school wanted a western speaker of fluent English to participate in the project.

After two hours of deliberation in Balinese, Gede informed me the banjar leader, principal, and teachers had unanimously agreed to give the project the green light! Excited by this vote of confidence, I asked Gede WHEN we could start the program? My question was translated and the principal got up to fetch the Balinese calender.

CPF mediator leading meeting

It is customary in Balinese Hinduism to plan everything according to auspicious astrology. This is all meticulously worked out by religious authorities, and printed on the Balinese Calendar. There are days that are good for cutting your hair, clipping your nails, or filing your teeth; and then there are days that are good to start a new venture. Such a day had to be chosen from the calendar to ensure the success of the project. So, the date was set for two weeks later, giving us little but enough time to prepare.

A shopping trip to an educational book store in Denpasar revealed a wealth of colorful posters and handy workbooks. I searched, in particular, for materials that had both Indonesian and English explanations to make it easier for the children to learn, as well as providing a convenient Indonesian lesson for myself

Boys and their books!

When the day arrived for our classes to begin, I really saw what perfect angels Balinese children can be. Over fifty kids, between the ages of six and eleven, were playing around and having fun while waiting for us in the schoolyard. My nervous anticipation began to subside as I witnessed the happy smiles and the spontaneity of innocent youth.

I recall from my own primary school days in South Africa, that a day would start with assembly where the children would be seated in neat rows to hear announcements from the headmaster. Then, row-by-row, and in an orderly fashion, we would adjourn to our classrooms. At this school, in this time, things are being done a little differently…

A boy praying in class

The children had their own ceremony, with just a little help from the principal to light the incense. They even did a prayer and offering inside the classroom. It was so inspiring to be given the opportunity to teach these wonderful children, and I am so exited now to see them every Sunday.

Dee giving individual attention

Our Sunday class is basically just an oral revision of what the children learn during the week. This a class where individual attention is given, and each child gets a chance to talk. I listen to their pronunciation and grammar, while giving advice and playing fun educational games.

Anybody is welcome to join and participate in this class every Sunday. Transport leaves at 12:30 p.m. and returns to Ubud at 17:30.

Come face to face with an angel and teach while you learn. This is truly magical.

Local Graffiti Demonstrates Students' Desire to Learn

CPF, along with a local primary school in Songan Village has put in place a weekly English language program for the students. Every Sunday, with Gede and an accredited teacher from the local school, I visit the school and teach English to children between the ages of five and eleven through conversation, interaction, and a few fun activities.

Once again, anyone visiting Bali is welcome to volunteer to participate in this project. Transport from Ubud departs at 12:30 p.m., and we arrive back in Ubud at about 5:30 p.m.

This is a great opportunity to interact with children in the village, and to offer the gift of English communication. If there are native speakers of any other useful international languages, especially Japanese and Mandarin, please talk to Gede about the possibility of implementing additional programs!

This has been a fascinating experience for me, and I am looking forward to sharing an in depth article on it shortly. In the meantime, we very much look forward to hearing from you!

The House CPF Built

It has been my great pleasure to write my introductory series on the people and ceremonies of the Batur Caldera, and the new “Off The Beaten Track” tours that Gede and the Cempaka Putih Foundation have created in order to help generate funds, increase tourism revenue, and create awareness of the cultural heritage of the area. I hope that I have been able to express my impressions and my wonderment, and have perhaps been able to interest a reader or two in learning more about this fascinating region of Bali.

It may seem to some that the rich cultural and religious practices of Bali, as well as the influx of tourist revenue on the island, create an inconceivable contrast with the poverty and misfortune many people experience. This is especially marked in the isolated, relatively cool, dry, and dusty volcanic environment of the Batur Caldera. For this reason, we would now like to introduce and report on some of the projects that the Cempaka Putih Foundation has begun, in order to directly assist some of their most poverty stricken neighbors.

Area Surrounding the Family Home

Prior to getting involved with the Cempaka Putih Foundation, I had an impression that poverty was directly related to crime and moral decay. However, after spending time with Gede and visiting some of the families assisted by CPF, it has become clear that the poverty they experience is due to isolation and a lack of access to education and basic support. The people I met created a positive impression on me that was only confirmed by their gracious reaction to even the smallest assistance. On my first visit to Kintamani, I was honored to witness exactly this humble gratitude, of giving to those in need.

It was a cold, misty, and rainy day when Zoray and I drove up to Kintamani, wearing a plastic raincoat poncho, on a scooter! Gede was actually surprised that we had kept our appointment. The cold rain and mist obscured any view of the spectacular lake and mountain that are the main draws of tourism to the area. There was no trace of any tourists, police, or street vendors that morning. Perhaps it was, indeed, the perfect weather for my first visit, and to visit the house the Cempaka Putih Foundation had raced to finished, just in time to shelter the family against the weather and elements of the rainy season.

Gede Chats With Neighborhood Woman

After sitting with Gede for some time, and discussing ideas for my time in volunteering with him, he was eager for me to see Serronga, Songan Village, and to show me the house the Cempaka Putih Foundation had built, using donations and volunteer labor. After a muddy slippery ride in Gede’s car, we arrived at Serronga. I found the setting rural, yet beautiful in its serene simplicity.

The modest home we went to visit did not have electricity or running water, though there were a few cows, chickens, and dogs running around fields that looked freshly harvested, and in need of being ploughed and worked again. Gede informed me that, modest though it was, the house is a marked improvement on the previous one room bamboo thatched dwelling. Although not plastered and painted, the brick house at least has a waterproof roof and ceiling.

The New Kitchen

As the family still does not have electricity or a gas stove, fire is the only way to cook. For safety, and to prevent smoke inhalation, the new house has a separate kitchen, with its own outside entrance. Lunch had already been cooked and the fire was out as I entered, but I noticed that the ceiling of the kitchen doubles as pantry for food and basic appliances.

As I walked into the house, I was surprised to be greeted, with a warm smile, by a little boy lying on a mat and playing with a bamboo stick. This was I Komang Yoki, who suffers from a debilitating congenital disease that has stunt his growth and left him paralyzed. When his parents aren’t home, a woman in the community helps to look after him during the day.

Sleeping Area

I continued to view the bedroom of the house, where the entire family sleeps. It is also quite basic, with no soft luxuries like mattresses. There were only a few pillows and blankets to keep warm during the cold Kintamani evenings. With limited donation funds, basic needs like this could be met, and would be as appreciated as a fully interior decorated designer mansion.

It was my first visit to the area, and I felt totally overwhelmed with empathy for the little boy. I had to step outside to calm myself. On the step, I started to talk with Gede about my impressions and feelings. As I became more emotional, I asked Gede if we couldn’t take Yoki to the beach, or at least find him more toys to play with as I think it must be very frustrating for him in the house all day.

Strangely, I felt some instinctive desire to take him away from there, as though I could provide a better place for him. These thought were, of course, completely irrational, and I began to realize that this small dwelling isn’t just a house. It is a home. This is Yoki’s home that he shares with his family, who love and care for him, in the small village community where he is known, happy, and accepted.

That is the wonder of the work of the Cempaka Putih Foundation. It is a grass roots effort, by people from the area, attempting to help their friends and neighbors by bringing the things they need most right to their doorstep. Sometimes the neighbors even pitch in to create that doorstep for them!

No donation is too insignificant to make some small difference in the life of a child or a family affected by such poverty. Even when things are unwanted or superfluous to one person, they are sure to make someone else’s life better.

In these times economic uncertainty, it is perhaps wise to realize that it was not from giving too much that we are losing our security. It might rather be said that it is from taking too much. Donating to any project, and in particular the Cempaka Putih Foundation, is an opportunity to change lives, and bring some comfort to people who are very much in need.

A Warm Smile

I hope that by telling the story of the people and their culture, and by working with the Cempaka Putih Foundation, I might strike a chord as to the importance of preserving, protecting, and supporting the people and culture of the Bangli regency. Your support, no matter how small, could help the area gain strength, and win the fight against poverty. Thanks to support from our existing contributors, Yoki got a home and this rainy season will be dry and warm.

If you have any comments or suggestions please contact us! We are always open to suggestions and appreciate all help offered. We have the PayPal and bank transfer options available for making donations, and would love to hear from you would like to volunteer your time and skills.

If you are in Bali, please consider taking the “Off the Beaten Track” Tour with Gede and CPF volunteers (suggested minimum donation of $45 USD per passenger, all profits go directly to CPF projects) to learn more about this unique regency, and the issues, ideas, and goals of the people who live there.

Hope to hear from you soon!
Dee

A Tree in Songan Village

Modern Western society seems to focus on new stories and gratuitous entertainment, whereas more traditional societies celebrate and reenact the stories of their cultural heritage – or legendary history. The road towards the truth, literal or subjective, is a road less traveled, and the road from Songan Village up to Belandingan is a 4×4 extraordinaire’s ultimate journey.

As the road to Belandingan is steep and treacherous, Gede offered to find an experienced driver to help me make my way. I bravely declined. If failure is the first step towards real success, I think I made a giant leap!

As I followed Gede closely up the first steep incline, studiously in first gear, I had to swerve to avoid the loose rocks propelling from his back tires. Mortifyingly, the engine of the little Jimny promptly stalled out. Petrified at the swift, and seemingly uncontrolled, gravitational pull on the steep incline as we attempted to restart the car, Zoray and Cempaka fled from the Jimny and sought refuge in Gede’s car. Gede was left with the task of driving both cars up the worst of the incline, and I was left to follow him, alone in the Jimny, to Belandingan.

A Woman in Belandingan

As we all got out of our respective cars, Heather kindly stroked my bruised ego with the words: “Dee is a really good driver!” Some women really do seem to have nurturing and healing powers. As my embarrassment subsided, I could focus on the hive of activity in the streets of Belandingan.

The practically deserted village of our first visit was now buzzing with people making their way towards the temple grounds. Along with Heather and Pete, I immediately became aware of the intense gazing stare of an elderly woman, from behind the short exterior wall of the nearest house. If I could read her mind, I wonder what tales her thoughts would tell. I reached for my camera and started to record the events unfolding, with great excitement, all around us.

Villagers Walking To Temple

Young and old were equally surprised and amused by our arrival. The community’s hospitality was overwhelming for Pete, who was greeted by a young man who apologized for speaking bad English. Dumbstruck, Pete replied: “Excuse me! I am here in your village and I cannot even begin to speak your language. I am the one who should be apologizing!” Visiting the Head of the village, and having his blessing to be there, really paid off, thanks to Gede and The Cempaka Putih Foundation.

Temple Entrance

With no rice stuck to my forehead, I was politely stopped by the temple security and asked if I had been to a ceremony (an apparent prerequisite to enter and see the dancing). I gave them a friendly and detailed gesture that I had been and, with a few Balinese words from Gede, they allowed me inside. The atmosphere in the temple was majestic and festive with the gamelan playing and young dancers practicing the traditional Balinese choreography and movements in unison. As the evening progressed, and darkness descended, the experienced masters took over the dancing, performing in full costume.

A Dancer in Costume

Gede introduced me to a guide that would escort me around the temple grounds, so I could take some photographs and short videos. He introduced himself as ”Ketut Dodi,” and, with confidence, I could reply: “Nama saya Dee.” Ketut Dodi turned out to be a wonderful wingman and right hand, as I sneaked around the temple grounds. I left Heather and Pete with Zoray, and explored every square inch of the Temple. It was as exiting as having a press-pass at a fashion show in Milan!

Balinese Delicacies

A new delicacy for me, which may be an acquired taste for some, is the Balinese Cuisine for sale at little temporary “warungs” around the temple. What a feast! At times I might not have known exactly what I was eating, but I surely enjoyed all of it. I highly recommend the smoked pork sausage and coconut doughnuts. To be daring, I would suggest that you eat to your hearts delight, even if it may cause your stomach some distress!

Singing a Duet

Back in the temple, the head of the village was singing a duet of phrases from a book with another man. As I sat and listened, while watching the dances, I became aware of the intrinsic effect. That was the closest I have ever been to understand the true meaning of something referred to as a “time warp.” The highlight of this evening was to be at 2:00 o’clock that morning, but it was time for us to leave this place, and return to our own lives with a bit more respect and dedication.

Dee with the Dancers

At times “Terima Kasih” or “Thank You” just isn’t enough to show appreciation. Luckily for me, I learned a new phrase from Ketut Dodi, to express the highest appreciation in Balinese.

I lift my hands together in prayer up to my chest and say to Gede, Zoray, Heather, Pete, Cempaka, the people of Belandingan, and the readers and supporters of the Cempaka Putih Foundation a warm and heart felt:

“Matur Suksema”

Dee Goes to Temple!

I have never before been inside a Balinese temple, or attended a Balinese ceremony. This is hardly surprising, considering I am not a Balinese Hindu. I am more familiar with rituals such as baptism, Holy Communion, and Sunday Prayer Services. Religion is, perhaps, something your parents or culture introduces to you. However, I feel your true faith or belief is revealed by the way you live your life.

If you know who you are, it is easy to be yourself regardless of where you are. So, going to the temple wasn’t something I feared, exactly, but I anticipated the experience to be strange, possibly uncomfortable, and probably not quite life-changing. When I am exposed to the unknown, I often find comfort and reconnection with the well-known inside myself.

Sruni Carries an Offering

I cannot recall if I was the first or the last to walk into the temple out of Gede, Zoray, Cempaka, Heather or Pete, but I know my expectations were immediately blown away. Most churches, mosques, and cathedrals, in my experience, are opulent, spotless, well-maintained buildings, with spectacularly shaped roofs or domes. In contrast, a Balinese temple is a roofless enclosure, with an intricately carved entrance, and walls all around that resemble some kind of ancient ruins. Erected during the “Elephant Century,” that would be around the 1600s, as Gede explains it, all temples in Bali are believed to have invisible walls of energy around them. In hindsight, it also makes sense to me to worship in a place that has no ceiling or roof. I am sure it creates a more “direct line.”

Temple and Bale

I admired a detailed black and gold, multi-tiered thatched roofed temple, containing ornate offerings, piled high, as a priest chanted in a small roofed enclosure, called a “Bale,” before it. I then saw Sruni (Gede’s sister-in-law) carrying her offering towards a long table, where she placed it among all the other offerings. As she returned to where we were standing, everybody started to get seated on the temple floor. I sat with Heather and Pete, right at the back; partly because I was feeling like a naughty schoolboy, but mainly out of respect, and a desire not to be too interruptive. Just before we started, I whispered nervously to Pete: “I don’t know what to do. I have never been to a ceremony before!”

Table of Offerings

Gede quickly explained to me that there would be five prayers, and the blessing from the priest to look forward to. Pete comforted me by saying you can do it all with your eyes open, and follow along with what everybody else is doing! Sruni placed a little bamboo square try in front of me filled with flower petals and a burning incense stick.

Being Seated

First, I saw Pete waving his open hands over the incense smoke and did the same. With the men in cross-legged position, and the women kneeling on their heels, we then placed our hands together and lifted them over our heads, while bowing ever so slightly forward. Shortly, I heard a priest ring the bell, a faint “Om,” and we were at ease again. The next four prayers involved placing flower petals between your index and middle fingers and then placing your hands together, in prayer position, to lift above the forehead. Afterwards I saw some people throwing their flower up in the air, while others placed them behind their ears or in their hair.

Zoray Shoots Me a Look

After a final empty handed raising of the hands, the atmosphere changed to be a little more joyous as the priests came around sprinkling us with holy water. In a humorous moment, the little girl seated directly in front of me got a precisely aimed splash of holy water to the head, in order to get her attention, as she craned around to stare at me.

A Priest Dispenses Holy Water

The priests then dropped holy water into our cupped hands. After drinking three times, we wetted our hair with the final splash. After the holy water ritual, a silver plate of hard, uncooked white rice was offered around. A small amount is taken from the plate, and placed on the center of the forehead. This procedure seemed to clearly suss out the most uninitiated person at the party, as I couldn’t managed to get my rice to stick!

Though I didn’t expect to feel anything, to claim I didn’t would be a blatant lie. Regardless of my inexperience with Balinese Hinduism, the meditative nature of the ritual and ambience felt soothing and cleansing. I was particularly surprised at the gentle acceptance I felt, as an outsider, and that nobody approached me with any literature or handshakes, as often happens at religious services in the West. It was the most refreshing religious experience of my life! It felt entirely personal and intimate, without the showcasing of coming forward to confess or being singled out in any way. It felt like being part of something without being asked to abandon myself.

Inside the Main Temple

More open than before, we moved on to the main temple. As Heather entered in front of me she said: “Oh, Dee you’re going to love this one!” Shiny, colorful, plentiful bling, and a hypnotic visual feast were to be found inside the main temple. Heather pointed out the small, ornate palanquins to the side of me. Gede explained that all families coming to the temple carry the spirits of their ancestors in them, from their houses to the temple, to join them in worship. We had another six phased ceremony where I hope I improved on my posture and hand gestures. I could only ask Gede more about the meaning at a later stage:

Ancestors Palanquin

In the following days, and peppered with questions, Gede explained to me that the height of your hands is important. When worshipping the gods they need to be held above your forehead. When worshipping your ancestors they need to be placed above your nose. When paying respects to spirits and mortals, your hands should be placed by your chest.

In the five prayers done in the temple, each one is offered to a different God and has a distinct purpose. Firstly, you raise your empty hands to ask permission from the gods to speak. Then with a flower petal in hand you thank the sun for shining, the water for flowing, the unique spirit of the temple, and the supreme god of all things. Finally, you raise your empty hands again, end your prayers, and bid the gods farewell.

A Father and Son at the Lakeside Temple

Holy water from the priest is for emotional and spiritual cleansing. Rice to the Balinese is the source of life. Sticking rice to your forehead, or your third eye chakra, serves as proof that you have been at a ceremony, and as a reminder of what is important in your life as a Hindu.

Speaking to Gede, I realized that Hinduism, and the way it is practiced in Bali, is more than a lifetime commitment. It is a way of life, and of death. It is a journey beyond a lifetime.

To be continued…

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Heather

Many visitors dream of finding “the real Bali,” and many businesses, from tour guides to golf courses, purport to offer an exclusive glimpse. It should be remembered, however, that all of it, from the airport to Singaraja and everything in between, IS real! Bali is a dynamic place, and every person here, from a hotel desk clerk or a tourist dancing in a nightclub to a rice farmer or an expatriate English teacher, is experiencing the “real world.” It is all around us.

Even in this swiftly changing world, however, there are still proudly traditional rural areas, where very few tourists get to go. Whether an area is simply too remote, not economically developed enough, or simply doesn’t cross the path of the major flow of tourist traffic, the events that happen there remain clearly personal, cultural, and truthful to the people of that specific area.

Bali is a mystical and spiritual place. If you’ve spent time here, then you probably already know that. If you haven’t, I’d highly recommend a visit to experience it first hand. Some people believe in fate, kismet, karma, or just simply “coincidence.” Personally, when I witness or experience a divine momentary “coincidence” here, I like to say: “Only in Bali!”

Heather and Pete

Meeting Heather and Pete was an “Only in Bali” moment. When a sudden cloudburst forced me off my scooter, I ran into the nearest restaurant for shelter. Seated, “coincidently,” at a table with a friend I had met previously, was Heather. I felt I already knew her the moment our eyes connected. After a brief conversation with her about the Cempaka Putih Foundation, and without even showing her the pictures I took of the warrior village for bait, Heather and Pete, her traveling companion, agreed to accompany me on this unique “Off the Beaten Track” experience. Heather explained to me that it had been a dream of hers to experience something authentic and traditional, free of the obvious influence of tourism, in her remaining days on the island.

Rice Terrace View at Tegalalang

The very next day, Heather, Pete, myself, Zoray, and her six year old daughter Cempaka (named after the flower, and the namesake of the Cempaka Putih Foundation) were in a little Jimny Jeep, taking the scenic route past the rice terraced valley of Tegalalang, on our way to Kintamani. Our journey was pleasantly moving along until a passing man on a scooter signaled to me that we had a flat tire. Believe it or not, just another two minutes down the road, we came across a small local mechanic. In a slow motion F1 racing maneuver, we managed to pull in and negotiate a tire pump. “Only in Bali!” Perhaps it is saying that so much that is making me believe it so strongly?

Heather, for reasons unknown to me, was surprisingly open and receptive of all the suggestions I made to make the most out of this trip. She even (with a small prior caveat) agreed to have lunch from a local warung that looks like it might not pass a western health inspection. One of Zoray’s favorite treats on our regular sojourns to Kintimani, this small family warung sells the tastiest fried fresh water fish, with rice, vegetables, peanuts, and sambal. It has become an instant tradition for us to stop there every week. After one bite, you would be willing to fight off a thousand flies to ensure that you get the next bite, and can finish your meal without sharing any of it!

Dee, Pete, and Heather in Pakaian Adat

With our stomachs full of this “daring” local delicacy, it was time for us to transform our outer appearance to please the local dress code, or “Pakaian Adat.” Gede played tailor with Pete and me to get us geared up with both an inner and outer sarong, a white headband, or “Udeng,” and a lovely cream jacket for me. Zoray assisted Heather in slipping graciously into a sarong, kabaya, and sash. Surely, this style of dress must have a lot of meaning, symbolism, and history. However, in our ignorance of such matters, we could only go with the flow in order to be allowed into the temples to experience an outsider’s glimpse of Balinese culture.

Gede, Zoray, and Cempaka

Escorted by Gede, Zoray, and Cempaka, we drove off from Volcano Breeze Café in Toya Bungkah into Songan village. As we arrived and got out of the car, we felt a little as though we had slipped through a portal into an alternate universe. It was a bit like in “Being John Malcovitch,” except perhaps this film would be called, “Being Balinese.”

We had arrived at the edge of Lake Batur, and were making our way towards the temple, without another foreign visitor in sight. I took several pictures to try and capture the moment. I mentioned to Heather that this place is so beautiful that it would be a dream to live there. In that moment, Heather looked at me and said: “Dreams do come true.” Her modest dream was being realized that very second, surrounded by people so giving in spirit as to allow us, as foreigners and outsiders, to join them in their offerings and prayers.

To be continued…

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