Family Portrait

While friendships might sink, family ties bind people ever closer together. Being involved with the Cempaka Putih Foundation gives such an experience of togetherness and of being part of a family. While assisting with projects that aid and relieve the needs of the community, you may also be invited to participate in the culture, ceremonies, and joyous occasions of day-to-day life.

Max With The School Children

Recently, we have been blessed with visits and active involvement from friends of CPF. One such friend is Max, an actor and fitness instructor from South Africa, who has also been a ballet dancer in Europe. Initially, he just came along to assist me in giving the English classes in Songan village, but he soon found himself learning and experiencing more about the people of this magical Balinese caldera.

Cleansing at the Mountain Spring

His first encounter was a bit of a cold shower, during a new year’s cleansing ceremony in a mountain river. After this dousing Gede, Max, and I adjourned to the temple of the water goddess, at the shore of Lake Batur, for a private ceremony. An introduction to Balinese ritual I am sure he won’t soon forget…

We later attended a wedding ceremony in the village. While in the West a wedding is a private affair, for which guests must clear their entire day, in Balinese custom it is quite polite for members of the community and friends to arrive, greet the bride and groom, have a meal, and be off again! So, that is just what we did. However, afterwards, Gede took us further into the isolated caldera region to bring spring water to a remote village for a much more unusual wedding ceremony.

Max and Gede in Temple

Ancestral wedding ceremonies are a rarity we were much honored to witness. A family in the mountains was convinced that their ancestors, who never been given a proper wedding ceremony, needed one in order to bring balance and harmony back to the family. CPF was there to share and assist in this belated celebration of the past couple’s union. Max and I were treated like royalty, and eager youngsters, vying for an opportunity to practice their English skills, kept the conversation lively and informative.

Graham Leads a Nursery Rhyme

Teresa Bids Adieu

Teresa was truly touched when it came time for us to leave, and a little boy placed her hand on his forehead when bidding her farewell. I hope that the games, laughter, and fun of the day will echo in her heart for years to come.

All good things come to an end, even life itself. Graham, Max, and I joined Gede for the cremation ceremony of a beloved 105 year old man. A man Gede had considered to be as his own grandfather. Although a cremation is a colorful and boisterous affair, we all bonded and became slightly emotional over the loss of this cherished family member

In the Family Compound

The communal meal at the family compound afterwards really made us feel like a part of this family, and close to the community. During times of loss a stranger’s love and support can be of great comfort.

Whether you give of yourself, your time, your money, your expertise, or just a hug, I highly recommend learning more about the daily routines, trials, joys, and heartbreaks of this unique area, if even just to bring you closer to your humanity and yourself. Having been involved with CPF for the last five months has made me realize someone may not be your friend, but they are always your family. We are all part of this human race, and we are living together on Mother Earth. Cempaka Putih Foundation is proof that a little effort can make a huge difference in our common struggles to survive and thrive in these tumultuous times.

Hands in Prayer, A Universal Symbol

All donations, no matter how small, are of great benefit when they reach grass roots efforts like CPF. Every drop in the bucket is essential in making a difference and assisting in the relief of poverty. If you want to do your part, and be part of our family, just as Max, Graham, Teresa and I did, do not hesitate to contact CPF. I am sure I speak for all of us when I thank Cempaka Putih Foundation for this opportunity, and I hope our involvement will inspire others to join, donate, and unite as one big global family.

A Tree in Songan Village

Modern Western society seems to focus on new stories and gratuitous entertainment, whereas more traditional societies celebrate and reenact the stories of their cultural heritage – or legendary history. The road towards the truth, literal or subjective, is a road less traveled, and the road from Songan Village up to Belandingan is a 4×4 extraordinaire’s ultimate journey.

As the road to Belandingan is steep and treacherous, Gede offered to find an experienced driver to help me make my way. I bravely declined. If failure is the first step towards real success, I think I made a giant leap!

As I followed Gede closely up the first steep incline, studiously in first gear, I had to swerve to avoid the loose rocks propelling from his back tires. Mortifyingly, the engine of the little Jimny promptly stalled out. Petrified at the swift, and seemingly uncontrolled, gravitational pull on the steep incline as we attempted to restart the car, Zoray and Cempaka fled from the Jimny and sought refuge in Gede’s car. Gede was left with the task of driving both cars up the worst of the incline, and I was left to follow him, alone in the Jimny, to Belandingan.

A Woman in Belandingan

As we all got out of our respective cars, Heather kindly stroked my bruised ego with the words: “Dee is a really good driver!” Some women really do seem to have nurturing and healing powers. As my embarrassment subsided, I could focus on the hive of activity in the streets of Belandingan.

The practically deserted village of our first visit was now buzzing with people making their way towards the temple grounds. Along with Heather and Pete, I immediately became aware of the intense gazing stare of an elderly woman, from behind the short exterior wall of the nearest house. If I could read her mind, I wonder what tales her thoughts would tell. I reached for my camera and started to record the events unfolding, with great excitement, all around us.

Villagers Walking To Temple

Young and old were equally surprised and amused by our arrival. The community’s hospitality was overwhelming for Pete, who was greeted by a young man who apologized for speaking bad English. Dumbstruck, Pete replied: “Excuse me! I am here in your village and I cannot even begin to speak your language. I am the one who should be apologizing!” Visiting the Head of the village, and having his blessing to be there, really paid off, thanks to Gede and The Cempaka Putih Foundation.

Temple Entrance

With no rice stuck to my forehead, I was politely stopped by the temple security and asked if I had been to a ceremony (an apparent prerequisite to enter and see the dancing). I gave them a friendly and detailed gesture that I had been and, with a few Balinese words from Gede, they allowed me inside. The atmosphere in the temple was majestic and festive with the gamelan playing and young dancers practicing the traditional Balinese choreography and movements in unison. As the evening progressed, and darkness descended, the experienced masters took over the dancing, performing in full costume.

A Dancer in Costume

Gede introduced me to a guide that would escort me around the temple grounds, so I could take some photographs and short videos. He introduced himself as ”Ketut Dodi,” and, with confidence, I could reply: “Nama saya Dee.” Ketut Dodi turned out to be a wonderful wingman and right hand, as I sneaked around the temple grounds. I left Heather and Pete with Zoray, and explored every square inch of the Temple. It was as exiting as having a press-pass at a fashion show in Milan!

Balinese Delicacies

A new delicacy for me, which may be an acquired taste for some, is the Balinese Cuisine for sale at little temporary “warungs” around the temple. What a feast! At times I might not have known exactly what I was eating, but I surely enjoyed all of it. I highly recommend the smoked pork sausage and coconut doughnuts. To be daring, I would suggest that you eat to your hearts delight, even if it may cause your stomach some distress!

Singing a Duet

Back in the temple, the head of the village was singing a duet of phrases from a book with another man. As I sat and listened, while watching the dances, I became aware of the intrinsic effect. That was the closest I have ever been to understand the true meaning of something referred to as a “time warp.” The highlight of this evening was to be at 2:00 o’clock that morning, but it was time for us to leave this place, and return to our own lives with a bit more respect and dedication.

Dee with the Dancers

At times “Terima Kasih” or “Thank You” just isn’t enough to show appreciation. Luckily for me, I learned a new phrase from Ketut Dodi, to express the highest appreciation in Balinese.

I lift my hands together in prayer up to my chest and say to Gede, Zoray, Heather, Pete, Cempaka, the people of Belandingan, and the readers and supporters of the Cempaka Putih Foundation a warm and heart felt:

“Matur Suksema”

Dee Goes to Temple!

I have never before been inside a Balinese temple, or attended a Balinese ceremony. This is hardly surprising, considering I am not a Balinese Hindu. I am more familiar with rituals such as baptism, Holy Communion, and Sunday Prayer Services. Religion is, perhaps, something your parents or culture introduces to you. However, I feel your true faith or belief is revealed by the way you live your life.

If you know who you are, it is easy to be yourself regardless of where you are. So, going to the temple wasn’t something I feared, exactly, but I anticipated the experience to be strange, possibly uncomfortable, and probably not quite life-changing. When I am exposed to the unknown, I often find comfort and reconnection with the well-known inside myself.

Sruni Carries an Offering

I cannot recall if I was the first or the last to walk into the temple out of Gede, Zoray, Cempaka, Heather or Pete, but I know my expectations were immediately blown away. Most churches, mosques, and cathedrals, in my experience, are opulent, spotless, well-maintained buildings, with spectacularly shaped roofs or domes. In contrast, a Balinese temple is a roofless enclosure, with an intricately carved entrance, and walls all around that resemble some kind of ancient ruins. Erected during the “Elephant Century,” that would be around the 1600s, as Gede explains it, all temples in Bali are believed to have invisible walls of energy around them. In hindsight, it also makes sense to me to worship in a place that has no ceiling or roof. I am sure it creates a more “direct line.”

Temple and Bale

I admired a detailed black and gold, multi-tiered thatched roofed temple, containing ornate offerings, piled high, as a priest chanted in a small roofed enclosure, called a “Bale,” before it. I then saw Sruni (Gede’s sister-in-law) carrying her offering towards a long table, where she placed it among all the other offerings. As she returned to where we were standing, everybody started to get seated on the temple floor. I sat with Heather and Pete, right at the back; partly because I was feeling like a naughty schoolboy, but mainly out of respect, and a desire not to be too interruptive. Just before we started, I whispered nervously to Pete: “I don’t know what to do. I have never been to a ceremony before!”

Table of Offerings

Gede quickly explained to me that there would be five prayers, and the blessing from the priest to look forward to. Pete comforted me by saying you can do it all with your eyes open, and follow along with what everybody else is doing! Sruni placed a little bamboo square try in front of me filled with flower petals and a burning incense stick.

Being Seated

First, I saw Pete waving his open hands over the incense smoke and did the same. With the men in cross-legged position, and the women kneeling on their heels, we then placed our hands together and lifted them over our heads, while bowing ever so slightly forward. Shortly, I heard a priest ring the bell, a faint “Om,” and we were at ease again. The next four prayers involved placing flower petals between your index and middle fingers and then placing your hands together, in prayer position, to lift above the forehead. Afterwards I saw some people throwing their flower up in the air, while others placed them behind their ears or in their hair.

Zoray Shoots Me a Look

After a final empty handed raising of the hands, the atmosphere changed to be a little more joyous as the priests came around sprinkling us with holy water. In a humorous moment, the little girl seated directly in front of me got a precisely aimed splash of holy water to the head, in order to get her attention, as she craned around to stare at me.

A Priest Dispenses Holy Water

The priests then dropped holy water into our cupped hands. After drinking three times, we wetted our hair with the final splash. After the holy water ritual, a silver plate of hard, uncooked white rice was offered around. A small amount is taken from the plate, and placed on the center of the forehead. This procedure seemed to clearly suss out the most uninitiated person at the party, as I couldn’t managed to get my rice to stick!

Though I didn’t expect to feel anything, to claim I didn’t would be a blatant lie. Regardless of my inexperience with Balinese Hinduism, the meditative nature of the ritual and ambience felt soothing and cleansing. I was particularly surprised at the gentle acceptance I felt, as an outsider, and that nobody approached me with any literature or handshakes, as often happens at religious services in the West. It was the most refreshing religious experience of my life! It felt entirely personal and intimate, without the showcasing of coming forward to confess or being singled out in any way. It felt like being part of something without being asked to abandon myself.

Inside the Main Temple

More open than before, we moved on to the main temple. As Heather entered in front of me she said: “Oh, Dee you’re going to love this one!” Shiny, colorful, plentiful bling, and a hypnotic visual feast were to be found inside the main temple. Heather pointed out the small, ornate palanquins to the side of me. Gede explained that all families coming to the temple carry the spirits of their ancestors in them, from their houses to the temple, to join them in worship. We had another six phased ceremony where I hope I improved on my posture and hand gestures. I could only ask Gede more about the meaning at a later stage:

Ancestors Palanquin

In the following days, and peppered with questions, Gede explained to me that the height of your hands is important. When worshipping the gods they need to be held above your forehead. When worshipping your ancestors they need to be placed above your nose. When paying respects to spirits and mortals, your hands should be placed by your chest.

In the five prayers done in the temple, each one is offered to a different God and has a distinct purpose. Firstly, you raise your empty hands to ask permission from the gods to speak. Then with a flower petal in hand you thank the sun for shining, the water for flowing, the unique spirit of the temple, and the supreme god of all things. Finally, you raise your empty hands again, end your prayers, and bid the gods farewell.

A Father and Son at the Lakeside Temple

Holy water from the priest is for emotional and spiritual cleansing. Rice to the Balinese is the source of life. Sticking rice to your forehead, or your third eye chakra, serves as proof that you have been at a ceremony, and as a reminder of what is important in your life as a Hindu.

Speaking to Gede, I realized that Hinduism, and the way it is practiced in Bali, is more than a lifetime commitment. It is a way of life, and of death. It is a journey beyond a lifetime.

To be continued…

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